Subwoofer enclosure Dayton II ST255-8 10”

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This is a relatively small enclosure that is relatively small and easy to build.  This enclosure uses a 10″ down facing sub so it can work well as a hidden sub.

Parts List:
1 Dayton II ST255-8 10” Woofer – Parts Express $76.78
1 Dayton SA100 100W Sub Amplifier – Parts Express $109.88
1 Acousta-Stuf Polyfill 1 lb. Bag – Parts Express $9.25
2 ft of 1 ½” Inside diameter PVC pipe – Home Depot, Lowes, etc..$2-$3
3 Sheets 2’x4’ MDF – Home Depot, Lowes, etc.. $25
1 ¼ “ or 1 ½” drywall screws
Wood Glue
Paint/veneer/vinyl optional
Total Cost: about $250
Plans: all measurements in inches


Estimated Response



-Predrill all holes for assembly, use wood glue and drywall screws
-Use router and Jasper Jig to for speaker cutouts for fast and easy cutting. Jigsaw will also work.
– For cabinet legs, you can use 2” PVC but can be tricky to attach to the enclosure. If you go PVC route, you will have to cut MDF endcaps with a either a hole saw or a router, epoxy those to the PVC then screw them onto the enclosure. The easiest way is to glue stack your choice of either 3 2.5”x2.5” square or 2.5” diameter (cut with hole saw or Jasper Jig) pieces of MDF. Square is easiest but round probably looks nicest.
Good Luck and Enjoy!

2 Channel Audio Source AMP100 Review

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dayton es65wThe Audio Source AMP100 is an awesome little amplifier if you looking for low cost amps to go along with your preamp processor such as the Outlaw 970. The Audio Soure AMP100 features 2 channels rated at 50 watts RMS on an 8ohm load , 60 watts RMS on a 4ohm load and a nice 160 watts RMS bridged into 1 channel mono all with great sound quality. This is more than enough power for your surrounds and will work great for a center channel. This amp can also be used as a sub amp if you are powering a small to medium sub.

Audio Source Amp100 Vs Dayton APA150

Though it pushes out 15watts less per channel, the Audio Source is comparable to the Dayton APA150. The form factor is ideal for rack mounting where the Dayton APA150 is more compact and can be placed side to side on the same shelf or rack. Perhaps one of my favorite aspects of the AMP100 is that it is 4ohm stable so you can power just about any DIY speaker you can build. This is a great feature because most home theater receivers are only rated at 8 ohms.

Overall, either the Amp100 or Dayton APA150 would make a fine amp. The power difference is really negligible this just boils down to whether you need to rack mount the amp or simply shelf mount such as home theater applications. I myself have 3 APA150s side by side on shelf for my home theater and they fit perfectly fine. I would have a hard time finding space for 3 Amp100s in my application.

Find More info on the Amp100


The Audio Source Amp100 is an excellent amplifier for the DIY speaker builder in that it can run just about any DIY speaker system you can come up with. It’s also an excellent amplifier for use with a separate preamp processor in home theater applications provided you have the space for 3 or maybe even 4 of these guys. It’s robust enough for most most HT applications and you really can’t go wrong with the price. The only downside of course, is that you would need 3 or 4 Amp100s to power your entire HT system. Considering the price, this is a small sacrifice to the 7 channel units that can cost at least twice as much. So my final conclusion is to go for this amp for rack mounting or go for the Dayton APA150 where space limitations are a factor. You can’t go wrong with either one and the price is right on both!


-50 watts RMS per channel @ 8ohm
-60 watts RMS per channel @ 4ohm
-Bridgeable outputs for 150 watts RMS total power @ 8ohms
-2 stereo inputs with automatic priority override
-A, B, or A+B speaker selector switches
-5-way binding posts
-Frequency response: 20 Hz-20 kHz
-Dimensions: 16-1/2″ W x 2-7/8″ H x 9-1/4″ D
-Rack mountable

Click Here for More info on the Amp100

Dayton Reference RSS390HF-4 15″ subwoofer DIY Home Theatre Cabinet Plans

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Click Here to Download Plans

Design Goals

My goal in designing a cabinet for the Dayton Reference RSS390HF-4 15″ subwoofer was to achieve sub 20hz bass for my home theater system. I was previously using the Dayto Quatro 12, and while it was a nice performer, it just could not achieve the deep bass I was seeking. Anything above 30-40 hz was great but it had some severe bottoming out in a 2 cubic foot ported enclosure. After reviewing all the available 15s it became clear that the Dayton Reference RSS390HF-4 15″ would be a suitable choice. Not only did it have some nice specs that were easy to work with, it also had a nice affordable price tag. I decided to couple the sub with the Dayton HPSA500 500W Subwoofer Amplifier. While a better choice would have probably been the Dayton HPSA1000 1000W Amp, I decided to got with the Dayton HPSA500 for price reasons as I wanted to keep the costs to a minimum. If you want to keep costs even lower, then the Bash 500W Digital Subwoofer Amplifier would provide the same power as the HPSA500 for about $100 dollars less. While I don’t have direct experience with the Bash amps, they do have some nice user reviews on Parts Express.


The design on this enclosure was pretty straight forward. Since it was going to be a pretty good sized cabinet yet still needed to maintain spousal approval, i went with a rectangular low profile design that when veneered, it could sit next to our couch and look something like a coffee table. After modeling the box in software, I came up with a 7 cubic foot enclosure (after deducting the amplifer and sub displacement), with dual 4″ diameter and 22″ length ports. This gave me an approximate tuning of 18.5 hz which was well within my intended frequency response for the project. The cabinet has the following external dimensions, 17.5″ H X 36″ W X 25″ D. I will admit that the cabinet is rather large but if you want this kind of bass without spending a ton of money on a sub then you have no other choice


The build was straight forward and easy. I wanted to keep it as simple as possible in order to expedite the build process. This enclosure is quite easy to pull off even for the most novice DIY speaker builder. Since it is a simple rectangle, as most sub enclosures are, it makes for an easy build. I used MDF purchased at the local Home Depot. I like to use the precut 2’x4′ MDF panels. This makes for easy maneuvering when cutting boards to size as well as transporting them from the store to your home. While a table saw is the easiest way, you can also either have your local Home Depot or Lowes simply cut the panels to size or you can use a circular saw. Using a circular saw is a bit more challenging as far as getting your pieces all a consistent length as well as achieving a straight cut but it can be accomplished by using guides and/or a router. I will post some circular saw speaker building tips at a later date.


Construction was pretty straight forward, nothing special since it’s just a rectangle. Once the pieces were all cut to size, it was assembled using 1.5″ sheet rock screws and wood glue. For a better finish, I like making the panels that make up the outside part of the butt joint about 1/4″ oversize. On this box it would be the top, bottom and the sides. This allows me to use a flush trim bit on a router for a perfectly flush joints once the entire enclosure is assembled. It is important that all screw holes be pre drilled so that the MDF does not split. Wood glue is also an absolute must for ultimate strength. Another absolute must on an enclosure of this size and type is internal bracing. I accomplished this by cutting a third panel of MDF then cutting a hole in the center (see plans). This piece was then installed at around the middle of the enclosure, screwed and wood glued to the 4 sides. You could do 2 such panels glued together for added strength but the one does the job. Since the joints need to be caulked, I assemble all pieces but one (either the top or bottom) so that you can easily access all inside joints with a caulking gun. I like to use “painters caulk” for this.

After caulking, attach the last piece. The remaining joints can be caulked through the woofer, amp and port cut outs. Once the enclosure was fully assembled, I proceeded to make all of the cutouts, I prefer to do this as the final step because I find it easier. You could opt to make the cutouts after cutting the panels . The woofer and port locations are on the plans. I left out the amp cut out from the plans because this will be personal preference. I placed mine on the side panel closest to the sub. In hind site, the side panel opposite the sub would have been better for concealment purposes. You could also do it on the rear panel right behind the sub as well. For ports, I used the Parts Express Create-Your-Own Flared Port Tube System which consist of an inside flair, outside flair and port tube. You simply cut the port tube to length , apply some epoxy/gorilla glue/PVC cement to the port tube ends and attach the flairs. I went with this port system instead of 4″ PVC to reduce port noise. If you decide to go with the Parts Express port system, you will need 2 4″ inside flairs, 2 4″ outside flairs, 3 port tubes and 2 couplers. I should note that the ports are a bit pricey but they look a whole lot better than white PVC and the flairs help minimize port noise. You can simply use 4″ PVC to reduce costs, note that the flairs do not work on standard PVC pipes because the outside diameters are different. This enclosure uses 2 4″ ports 22″ in length. Below are the plans for this build. Click the image to enlarge.


Once the wood glue was dried, I gave the entire thing a quick sanding. This is where routing your joints flush pays off. If you don’t have a router and plan on veneering, then you should sand all the joints flush. Once you have all your joints flush, you can finish the box to your preference. I plan on veneering mine but haven’t done so yet. Once you have it all done, install your sub, ports and amp. Be sure to use gasketing for your sub and amp, I recommend the Parts Express gasketing tape. I completed the cabinet by installing rubber cabinet feet, I used the Parts Express rubber cabinet feet.

Listening Impressions

Once I got everything hooked up, I went through my collection of movies with heavy bass tracks. One of my favorites is the remake of Flight of the Phoenix, the start of the movie has a VERY heavy bass track that starts with a plane flying through the sky and coming in for a landing. . All I can say is WOW! The bass coming out of this is amazing! I was hearing (rather feeling) frequencies I had never heard. I went through some other heavy bass track movies and was hearing and feeling frequencies that simply were not present on my previous sub. While I do not have any measuring equipment, the bass was the lowest I have ever heard. Not only is the bass very deep, but it is quite loud and more than enough to rattle your walls. You simply are not going to hear or feel anything like it at Best Buy. I would say that the frequency response rivals that of some $1000+ subwoofer systems I have heard during my time working at a high end AV store. Best of all you can experience this for less than half the price! I’m not going to tell you that this is the best sub system ever or that it is the best design ever but the bass will more than impress and amaze you if you have never experienced sub 20hz bass before.

.Click Here to Download Plans

Parts, supplies and Costs

All in all, considering you will end up with an awesome sub 20hz sub system, the cost is pretty cheap when you compare to some of the high end subs on the market. You might find cheaper systems at Best Buy and the like but they will not even compare to this. Total cost can range from $500-$700 depending on the amplifier you choose. Parts Express also runs deals on the amps and subs from time to time so check the Parts Express site often. Below is the parts/supplies list and estimated costs.

Building Materials

5 MDF 2’x4′ sheets or 1 4’x8′ sheet mdf- $40 (home depot, lowes, etc)

Screws and wood glue- $10 (home depot, lowes, etc)

4ft 4″ PVC- $10 (home depot, lowes, etc)

Gasketing tape- $5.50 Parts Express part 260-540

4 Cabinet feet- $4.00 Parts Express part 260-774

Total cost about $70-$80


Dayton RSS390HF-4 15″ Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm- $160
Parts Express

Amplifier (3 options)

Dayton HPSA1000 1000W Subwoofer Amplifier- $425 Parts Express

Dayton HPSA500 500W Subwoofer Amplifier- $325 Parts Express

Bash 500W Digital Subwoofer Amplifier- $229 Parts Express

Total cost about $400-$600 depending on which amplifier. Parts Express offers Free Shipping frequently so you can save some money there.

Floor Standing DIY Dayton Classic Transmission Line Speakers

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Click Here to Download Plans and Parts List in PDF

Click Here to view plans for a Cheaper and easier to build Transmission Line Kit

Let me first say that these are not my design. I found the plans a while back and I believe the designer’s site is no longer online. I believe Parts Express has the single woofer version in their Speaker Project Showcase but these are much better. Anyhow, these WTW (woofer tweeter woofer) transmission line floor standing speakers are my favorite speakers I have built to date. I basically built these out of curiosity as I was not familiar with Transmission Lines at the time. They also looked a bit challenging and nothing like your typical speaker so I figured it would be a fun build. It took me a couple of weekends to build the pair but the results were well worth it. The sound is magnificent in either home theater or music set ups and unlike anything you will hear at your local Best Buy. Mine are currently in use as the mains in my home theater setup and I would not trade them for anything, at least anything I could afford. Considering you can build a pair for around 300 bucks and get the sound of $1000+ speakers, there really is no reason why you should not build yourself a pair.

A Word on Transmission Line Speakers.

If you are not familiar with Transmission line speakers, they are basically long “tubes” for a lack of a better term, with a port on one end and a speaker on the other, in this case 2 6.5″ Dayton Classics. If you are familiar with Bose, then you are probably familiar with what they call their “Wave guide Technology”, which is Bose’s fancy way of saying Transmission line. These types of speakers provide extremely smooth, clear and low bass. The sound is very distinctive and hard to describe, as the bass is not hard or punchy like your typical speaker. So if you are looking for something different then these are definitely worth building.

Building and Assembly Tips

First let me say that these are a bit challenging to build but by no means impossible. In fact, they were my first real speaker building project so they are not extremely hard to build. If you decide to build these, here are some tips.

-I highly recommend a the pieces be cut on a table saw, at least all the deflectors as the angles can be challenging to cut with a circular saw. Fit quality will also be much better.

-Speaker cutouts should be done with a router and a circle cutting jig like Parts Express’ Jasper Jig . While they can be done with a jig saw, the cosmetics will suffer and you will not be able to flush mount the speakers.

-Predrill all screw holes when assembling.

-Make absolutely sure you have run the speaker wire before assembling the las piece otherwise it will be extremely difficult to run it all the way to the back of the speaker. I left one of the sides as the final piece.

-For the port, first cut it out with a jigsaw leaving about 1/4″ from the sides and top/bottom trim pieces (see plans) then go in with a router and flush trim bit for a perfect finish using the sides and trim pieces as guides for your trim bit.

Click Here to Download Plans and Parts List in PDF OR Click Here to view plans for a Cheaper and easier to build Transmission Line Kit

Building the Parts Express Tritrix Speaker Kit

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Tritrix Build How To and Review

The Tritrix has quickly become one of the more popular speaker kits of late since Parts Express dropped the price to a measly $119 bucks (you can view the kit here). So not only is this one inexpensive kit to build, it is also one of the few great transmission lines on the internet. I am a huge fan of transmission lines so at that price I just had to build it. Now, I did not use the pre built CNC cabinet kit Parts Express offers for an extra $100, after all building your own enclosures is most of the fun, at least for me. That and the fact that you can easily build it for less than half that.

Plan Changes

Before I get into the build, I have to point out a few issues that I personally do not like about the original plans which you can view here.

The first, is that the plans as well as the PE CNC kit have the baffle in between the sides. Doing so leaves, in my opinion, too little wood on the sides of the woofers and tweeter. If you were to build it as the plans call for, you would have about 1/2″ of wood to the sides of both woofers. this makes the baffle weak and prone to breaking. To fix it, I modified the plans by making the baffle a full 7 1/2″ instead of the 6″ called by the original plans and making the sides 13 1/2″ versus the 14 1/4″ called by the original, you can see the modified plan below and the original plans here. This makes the baffle much stronger by giving you an additional 3/4″ on each side yet does not change the internal volume of the speakers. The rear panels remain the same.

Second thing is that the space between the tweeter and woofers is way too small after you route the holes for flush fitting. This makes it very difficult if you plan on finishing them with veneer or vinyl laminate. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize this until after I had cut out the holes so I decided not to flush fit the woofers. If I were to do it again, I would add 1/4″ on the plans to the tweeter and bottom woofer placements. Some die hard purists may say that this will alter the sound , I personally think that my ears aren’t good enough to tell the difference. At any rate, the modified plan below reflects this. Now if you do not plan on veneering or you don’t mind making grills to cover the drivers up then you can use the original measurements

Finally, there are no dimensions for the diverters at the bottom. I just made the front diverter 6 1/2″ and the rear one 5 1/2″.

Parts List

Parts Express Tritrix Kit – $119 includes all drivers, cross over parts, stuffing and binding posts to build the speakers

2 Rolls Parts Express Black Ash Vinyl covering (There are several other choices available if you don’t like the Black Ash) – $40

8 Parts Express 1 1/8″ X 1/2″ Cabinet Feet – $7

Box 100 3/4″ #8 Black Mounting screws for drivers – $2.50

-4 3/4″ 2′ X 4′ MDF panels or 1 4’X8′ panel. I use the pre cut panels available at HD because they are much easier to handle/transport, but you can get a full 4’X8′ for cheaper to save money- $45

-1 box 1 1/4″ or 1 1/2″ drywall screws – $6

-Wood Glue – $4

– Painters Caulk – $2

Total Cost – About $225.00 (Parts Express has Free Shipping on the Tritrix Kit) Get everything you need from PE in 1 order so you can get free shipping

Building the Tritrix

Building the Tritrix is pretty straight forward, unlike the folded designs which can be a little trickier. Here are the panels that you need to cut if you follow my “modified” plans. Otherwise, you can view the original Tritrix plans here:

Sides – 4 panels @ 13 1/2″ X 36″

Tops and bottoms – 4 panels @ 6″ X 13 1/2 ”

Front Baffles – 2 panels @ 7 1/2″ X 36″

Rear top baffle – 2 panels @ 29″ X 6″ the angle should be cut with saw set to 12 degrees. I suggest cut he angle first, then cut the panel to length.

Bottom rear baffle pieces – 2 panels @ 13 1/4 ” X 6″

front bottom diverters – 2 @ 6″ X 6 1/2″

rear bottom diverters – 2 @ 6″ X 5 1/2″

Assembly of these are a breeze. Make sure you predrill and counter sink all holes, apply wood glue then screw together with 1 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ drywall screws. I suggest you start with 1 side panel , attach the top and bottom pieces, attach front baffle then the lower rear baffle piece. Now for the only slightly tricky part, attaching the rear top baffle piece. The easiest way to do this is to measure and locate the location on the side according to the plans, then draw two lines where the panel will be and drill the holes (see pic below). This makes it easy so that you don’t have to drill blind.

After you have the the holes drilled, just line up your panel with the lines and redrill the holes from the other side into the panel. Once you have that done, install the diverters at the bottom then caulk all joints with “painters caulk”. It’s important that you leave one of the sides for the last piece. I find that this makes assembly much easier on transmission line speakers because it makes the diverters much easier to install.

You may notice on the pic below that I went a little over size on the baffles, this is so that I can then come in with a flush trim bit on the router using the tops and bottoms as guides. It is much easier to end up with a “perfect” fit rather than trying to be perfect when you cut the pieces. I did the same with the sides, adding about a 1/4″ to the length than what the plans call for. If you want to do this just add about 1/4″ to the length & width of the front baffles and the same to only the length on the sides, all other pieces should be cut to the sizes specified on the plans.

Finish assembly by attaching the final side. One of the problems with attaching the side last is that you will need to reach inside the speaker through both the speaker holes and rear port to finish caulking the last side. If your arms are too thick they may not reach so you can apply both glue and caulk on the edges the side will go up against. Glue and “painter’s caulk” will work just fine when applied together.

Once you have the speakers assembled, it’s time to cut the speaker holes. If you plan on flush mounting the speakers, you will need to use Parts Express Jasper jig and a router for this ( other router circle jigs will work as well). A plunge router, a cutting bit and Jasper Jig are essential tools if you plan on making speaker building a regular hobby. You can get a decent plunge router and bits on Ebay for rather cheap. Of course you can still use a jig saw for cutting the holes and not flush mounting the drivers.

If using the Jasper Jig (or similar) and you haven’t done this before, you can cut the recess first by setting your plunge router to match the depth of the driver (about 1/4″) and the placing the pin on the Jasper jig at the over all diameter of the driver(see pics below). Then it’s just a matter of incrementally moving the Jasper Jig pin to smaller diameters until you reach the cut out diameter. When cutting the final hole cutout , you don’t want to try to cut all the way through the 3/4 inches because the wood will burn and the bit will dull. Instead, cut about 1/4″ depth at a time until you cut all the way through. As I mentioned previously, I did not flush fit the woofers because they are just too close to the tweeter and will make veneering very difficult. You can avoid this problem by following my plan OR you can follow the original Tritrix plans if you aren’t planing on veering or don’t mind making speaker grills. Luckily, since the recess is 1/2″, on the woofers, you can use a rabetting bit on the router to cut the recess later (you cannot do this with the tweeter because the recess is an odd size). Yet another option is to wait until after you have veneered to cut out the speaker holes and recesses. One thing to watch out for when cutting the tweeter recess is that you will need to cut out a little notch so that the wire terminals and wire will fit in the hole (see middle pic below) once you install the tweeter. You can do this with the router and cut out bit. Just cut a little bit at a time and test fit the tweeter until you have it right. If you don’t have a router and will not be flush fitting, then just make the cut out diameter like 1/8″ bigger than it should.

Once you have the cut outs done (or want to wait until after veneering to cut the holes), it is time to fill in all the screw holes and/or any wood imperfections. I use Bondo to fill in all holes and any joints that are not to my satisfaction. I do not recommend using products like joint compound for this because it pretty much sucks and does not adhere to wood very well. I also avoid the minwax type wood fillers because they take forever to dry. Bondo is the absolute best for filling in holes and imperfections because it is easy to sand, strong and drys within 15 min. Below is the final product prior to veneering. One last note, I highly recommend you pick up a a bag of #8 mounting screws for mounting the drivers. The kit does not come with them and you may not find similar screws at Home Depot, at least not in black. The screws will add an extra $2.50 but your finish product will look much better than if you use silver ones.


Though the Tritrix plans don’t specifically call for bases, I highly recommend them for 2 reasons. Reason number one, they make perfect homes for the crossovers. There are no convenient places inside these speakers to put them. It is also very easy to access them from the bottom of the base without having to remove the speakers should you need to do any trouble shooting. The second reason is that bases make your speakers more stable since these are on the narrow side. The simplest bases to make are square about 3″ tall. My bases are 3″ X 9″ X 15 3/4″, of course you can make your’s any size you wish so long as they serve the 2 purposes stated above. You can finish the bases with the Parts Express rubber Cabinet Feet or spikes


The Tritrix Crossovers are very easy to build. They don’t have many components so they should be a breeze to put together. You can view the Tritrix crossovers here . I used 1/4″ luan for the xover boards with all components hot glued and sautered. Make sure to keep the coils as far apart as possible to minimize “mutual coupling”. The best way to accomplish this is to lay one flat and the other standing on end (see picture). As I mentioned in the section above, I built bases to house the crossovers (see below). You can mount the crossovers to another 1/4″ piece of luan (or similar) and screw that on to the bottom of the bases. To run the wiring into the speaker, simply drill an appropriate size hole through the base and through the speaker. You can fill in the hole with painters caulk or silicone after you have ran the wires.

Finishing and Stuffing

Ok, you’re almost home. You can finish your speakers any way you like. I used Parts Express black ash vinyl because it looks good, its easy to apply and is relatively cheap. Of course you can veneer or paint as well. The final step is to stuff. I used about 1/2-3/4 of the bag stuffing the front. Make sure to fluff up the stuffing before putting it in the speaker. It is also helpfull to glue a dowel (or similar) inside the speaker in between the two sides. The dowel helps to keep the stuffing suspended and not letting it all fall to the bottom. I used a little less than 1/4 bag to stuff the back, again fluffing it up as you stuff it into the port. Once your stuffing is complete, install the speakers, hook them up to your amp and listen to them. If you are sure your xover wiring is correct, you can adjust the stuffing. Add a little more for hollow sounding speakers remove a little for muffled bass. Remember, these are 5 1/4″ drivers so don’t expect punchy wall rattling bass, that being said, there will be a surprising amount of bass for drivers this size. Your speakers should sound full and have smooth bass. Keep adjusting the stuffing if until you are satisfied.


I must admit that even though I have built quite a few speakers in my time, I still mess up xover wiring from time to time. This was the case with these, so here is a brief xover troubleshooting guide.

Tweeters sound harsh/distorted – You more than likely have the lowpass section of the xover to the tweeters. Turn amp off immediately to avoid damage. Check crossover. Make sure you have the high pass section to the tweets. Also make sure you don’t have any broken sauter joints.

No bass or too little bass– This is a common one and happens the polarity is wrong either on the woofer, tweeter or crossover connections. Check this thoroughly both on all drivers and xover. This one happens to me all the time especially when using wire that is not marked well. If all is well in that department but still no bass, you may have over stuffed. Remove stuffing and try again. If you find that you have removed alot of stuffing and still no bass. Then the culprit is more than likely your amp settings. This is especially common on home theater systems. Make sure you set it to stereo and that your front mains are set to large. This also happened to me and once I corrected it I was surprised by the fullness on these speakers.


The Tritrix were quite fun to build and for the price you can’t go wrong with this kit. I spent a little over $200 in total for the pair. This includes the wood, the Tritrix kit from Parts Express, screws, glue and the vinyl covering, so they are a very economical and worth while kit. I have to say that you will not find speakers ANYWHERE that sound this good for this cheap. Despite their small driver size, they have surprisingly full bass which I found more than suitable for home theater duty. In fact, I disconnected my much larger dual 6 1/2″ woofer Transmission lines to try these out. After watching a couple movies, I found that I lost very little by way of the overall HT experience. Of course, these sound just as good in a stereo system. I give this kit 2 thumbs way up and I highly recommend you build yourself a pair! Click here to take advantage of Parts Express Free Shipping on the Tritrix Kit